I have now lived in Texas for more than two years. During this time I have found little that appeals to me about this state topographically, instead constantly recalling to mind the scenic pleasures of the East Coast and regretting their conspicuous absence. Missing from my Texas life are lush, green grass, tall and mighty trees, rushing rivers, fall foliage, cold temperatures, snow, and many other delights from my former life.
Fast-forward to this past Tuesday. Joining my dad and brother for a two-day, overnight hike, I rode/drove to Big Bend National Park. Departing the house at 4:00 a.m., we arrived at the outskirts of the park around 11:00 a.m. We stopped at the first visitor’s center we encountered, as we needed a back country camping permit to reserve our evening destination. Regrettably, our desired camping spots were already taken, so we had to choose an alternate location. While waiting in line to offer our new choice, smoke started emanating from one of the center’s back rooms. This caused the Ranger inside to immediately evacuate the building. By default my dad and I temporarily became the outdoor guards, informing late-comers to the evacuation party that they weren’t supposed to enter the building. (Apparently the Ranger had no appropriate, "Evacuation underway inside, please stay outside," signs.)
Although guard duty proved very rewarding—what with all the lives we saved and all—it did not quite fit the purpose for our day. Therefore, we soon returned to our vehicle and continued on to another visitor’s center, this one located an additional 40+ minutes into the park and situated directly adjacent to our intended hiking embarkation point. After successfully obtaining the necessary camping permit, we packed on our respective equipment and hit the trail.
Having previously heard eyewitness accounts of Big Bend’s impressive beauty and grandeur, I should have expected the intensity of its natural wonders. However, possessing a prejudiced perspective of Texas, I had taken these accounts with large measures of a particular white seasoning, sub-consciously ascribing to the glowing reports a degree of exaggeration. If anything, what I had heard was so far understated as to leave me completely exposed to sensory overload and shock.
Genuine mountains loomed in front of and all around us. We were surrounded by a miniature version of the Swiss Alps, minus the snow and a few thousand feet. Trees of all shapes and sizes grew everywhere, an homage to the forests of Pennsylvania, Virginia, and Maine where I had previously hiked.
Our trek into the mountains soon revealed another very pleasing surprise, namely brilliant autumn foliage! Pockets of leaf-changing forest abounded below, above, and around us, with varying hues of gold, crimson, and umber offering themselves for our collective appreciation. As my previous experience with this manner of foliage had occurred only in the autumn season, my surprise was very great to see such a blessed sight at the end of December. However, autumn color is autumn color no matter in what month it is found, and I rejoiced at the goodness of the Lord to allow me its two-day enjoyment.
The first day of our hike guided us up many switchbacks in the trail, plotting our route along the mountainside and granting us many beautiful views of the surrounding summits. Because of our packs, the hour of the day, and the relative strenuousness of the trail, we soon became quite warm and developed rather annoying sore spots on our shoulders and hips from the combination of sweat and the constant friction of pack straps. However, we persevered through these minor inconveniences, and I am particularly proud of John’s forbearance in the midst of this hardship (his backpack was ill-fitted for his height and weight, and therefore he struggled the most with chafing). This was his first "real" overnight hike, and he acted the part of a man throughout.
Reaching our halting point for the evening—a campsite on the Northeast Rim—around 4:30 p.m., we changed shirts and socks and setup camp. Because ground fires are prohibited in Big Bend, our dinner consisted of canned tuna fish, a whole wheat roll, and applesauce. A few handfuls of trail mix and a seemingly unlimited supply of water rounded out our meal. (The park website repeatedly stressed the importance of packing prodigious amounts of water, and so we did. Give the cool temperature and time of year, suffice it to say that we were more than adequately prepared.)
Following dinner we read from Jeremiah 9, as well as from several other Scripture passages. We discussed the truths outlined in these selections and pondered the goodness of God in revealing Himself to us through His Word. Our time of reading and discussion ended with the darkening of the day, and we retired to our tent to await the appearance of the stars.
What a glorious, awesome night sky we saw! Abraham’s promise of future seed in number "as the stars of the heaven" took on a new dimension as we marveled at the mighty creation of God. Everywhere one looked in the milky blackness above, countless dots of white light shone back at him. Regrettably, being astronomically illiterate I was only able to identify the Big Dipper among the great constellations. However, although I could read very little from the night sky, its sheer brilliance of magnitude was evidence enough of my Creator’s power and might. Shooting stars and planet sightings completed our star gazing for the night, and we retired to bed at the late hour of 8:00 p.m.
My sleep was somewhat restless, being founded upon the solid rock of hard-packed earth, but, save for a single nighttime jaunt into the woods, I slept relatively well until 7:30 a.m. Of the three of us, I can successfully lay claim to having the greatest ability to sleep soundly in a tent with 40 m.p.h. winds whipping around us and the real threat of bears and mountain lions wandering through our camp. (Each campsite is equipped with a bear-proof metal "safe," specifically designed for holding any and all food brought by hikers bedding down for the night. It is mandatory for every edible item in the camp to be placed in this container before one retires to bed.) Sleep is sleep, I suppose. :>)
Breaking camp at about 8:15 a.m. the next morning, we briskly commenced our hiking for the day in an effort to neutralize the chilly morning air. Retracing the previous day’s steps for about a mile, we then took an alternate route down the mountain, one that was steeper but more direct. This path led us down the other side of the mountain, and we enjoyed views that comparatively dwarfed the vistas seen on Tuesday. From our vantage point at the top of precipice we could see the surrounding mountain peaks on level with our own, as well as the visitor’s center and base point located in the middle of the valley below. It was easy to understand why the valley is called "The Basin," as the encompassing mountains appeared to form the walls of a vast bowl. As far as the eye could see stretched mountain, forest, and sky so blue it didn’t seem real. How I did rue the absence of a wide-angle camera lens!
Continuing down the trail we were greeted by a never-ending cascade of awe-inspiring vistas. Between the autumn tones of winter and the glorious sight of rising mounds of rock, our thirst for natural beauty was sated. What a truly mighty and awesome God we serve.
A downhill journey tends to go quickly, in spite of repeated stops along the way to admire the scenic panorama. We reached the visitor’s center parking lot around 11:00 a.m., and soon were on our way out of the park and headed toward home. The unforgettable two-day slice of Heaven was finished.
For this sometimes unwilling and ungrateful resident of Texas, these past two days were an eye-opener into one of Texas’ redeeming features. Big Bend National Park is an earthly treasure of the first degree, and one I hope to partake of again. Many thanks to my dad for putting together this hiking endeavor and for coordinating everything so well. How sweet it was to enjoy a genuine overnight hike with my dad and my brother for the first time. Lord-willing, it will not be our last.